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stuston

Adam's '92 VW Jetta GL 8V "HellInA"

Car Name : Still working on it, but "Wife Beater" is at the top of my list, along with Heidi, Road Kill, or Designated Driver. Decided on Hellina, as in "To Hell in a... handbasket" But I prefer, "Gonig like HellInA Jetta" Smilie_PDT


Color: Whie with black and Rustolium trim
Date purchased: June 2007
Engine: 1.8 8V, NA

Originally:
Mods Engine: Rust
Mods Suspension: dropped it off the lift to the ground PDT_Aliboronz_14
Mods Interior: New Shifter knob and boot. Cleaned the inch of grime from the windows (and something lik KY from the mirrors)
Mods Exterior: White Grill w/ Black VW (just f-in around with it), fixed the bulbs, found license plate screws.
MikesA1A2FU

Nice to have another A2 in the bunch. I just got rid of mine a few months ago. All A1 now I may have some stuff laying around I'm just getting around to cleaning out my garage
on1salsero

It's cool in my book because it has 8v PDT_Aliboronz_15
Getta Life

engine swap.
&
leave the weak parts on the freeway.
stuston

Wheel Update (picts)

I got a 'fire sale' on the Vortex, literally;

One tire was scorched after the car caught on fire, and all the junk that burns off a car stuck to the outside of the one wheel.

Thousands of words;




Oh yeah, the money shot;
stuston

The Punch List

Completed Projects:  *Front wheel bearings, hubs, brakes, & rotors.  *Pass. Axel  *Wheels & Tires  *Water pump & coolant flush  *Tranny fluid change  *Leather & Aluminum Shift knob and boot  *Minor rust repair & replace rear DS door handle *Fixed a few exterior lighting bugs (coke & dielctric grease FTW) *Painted the grille white and VW black (probably will go back)

And the list shall surely go on...
stuston

Update 8/19

After a sleepless weekend, with centurian tempuratures, I got a few things done. Shifter rebuild kit and fromt motor mounts are in. AC Conversion 95% complete, should be able to charge it on Tuesday if I can get the right belt, and swap out the alternator with a bad bearing. Of course I had to paint every bit of rust I could see along the way. Last week I also took the "horn" out of the air box -- wow, how throaty at full petal.... it lives! (...and snorts like a pig).

Shortshifter, weighted shift linkage, and several other parts should be in early this week. Clutch is here, ready to go in as soon as I see how the new motor mounts feel with the worn clutch (or something breaks).
stuston

Front side sift kit (bushings), Short Throw, and Weighted shift rod are in the car! That was less than fun, esp. there's no real way to adjust it than trial and error.

New AC compressor and expansion valve are in. Flushed the sytem and it's ready for vaccum and a charge. Have to pull the blower fan to recondition or replace it, fix the speed conrol, then the interior bits can go back in ... assuming I can keep my mind off a sereo for that long.

Pained the bumber solid black and looking for better ways to put it back on. A europlate may be needed to hide some statigically placed zip ties. But if I can get that on, my new front fender flares will be going on in a snap. New DS headlight is in, and making the old one look bad.

Still waiting on a windage tray to come in so I can do my oil and plug change. And I'm working a couple of angles on getting rear discs. I even got a line on a 19mm swaybar in the process. I'll let you know how that goes.

The stiffer motor mount makes quike a differece... she's sold now. Just another month or two on this clutch and the upgraded Sach's and 16v pressure plate will be goign in.
MikesA1A2FU

Great job Adam you have come a long way in a short time. Keep it up
stuston

The Punch List 8/25

Completed Projects  *Front wheel bearings, hubs, brakes, & rotors.  *Pass. Axel  *Wheels & Tires  *Water pump & coolant flush  *Tranny fluid change  *Leather & Aluminum Shift knob and boot  *Minor rust repair & replace rear DS door handle  *Fixed a few exterior lighting bugs (coke & dielctric grease FTW)  *Painted the grille white and VW black (probably will go back)  *A/C converstion, everything but the coils and lines (needs a charge)  *K&N, removed restrictive airbox parts, disabled diverter (WOW, very throaty)  *DS Headlight replacement, no more broken adjustment tabs!  *HD rubber front motor mount, replaced subframe bushings (GOD! The RUST!)  *Replaced alternator under warranty.
I know I'm missing something?

...oh, and;  Mark and I did a quicky brake job & tire rotation on the F150 tonight, as well as some minor surgury on the seals to her red-oil soaked [dripping] K&N (so you're supposed to stop spraying at some point?)
stuston

MikesA1A2FU wrote:
Great job Adam you have come a long way in a short time. Keep it up


Thanks, my wallet is begging you to stop encouraging this behavior.

If only it weren't 106 every day for the past 3 weeks, or I could just get her in the shop for the AC charge, maybe I could drive her.
MikesA1A2FU

stuston wrote:
MikesA1A2FU wrote:
Great job Adam you have come a long way in a short time. Keep it up


Thanks, my wallet is begging you to stop encouraging this behavior.

If only it weren't 106 every day for the past 3 weeks, or I could just get her in the shop for the AC charge, maybe I could drive her.


If you can get the system vacuumed down, you can charge it yourself. Its not to difficult.
stuston

Well, I finally got it down to the shop today for the vaccum and charge, after getting the wrong belt for Oh-Oh-O'riely's (twice). All went well, until the way home. Smoke started coming out of the hood at a light, so I cut the AC, thinking it was proabably the belt. Got home and it was spewing oil everywhere and hissing coolant. Great, another $50 into the atmosphere, and more downtime.

Last week I finally got the shifter adjusted correctly and now it's beautiful. I got some good ideas for aftermarket parts (or at least how they should have made the ones I have), too bad there probably isn't a market to support another set of MKII parts.
MikesA1A2FU

so whats next??
stuston

Got a few things in the pipe; AC needs to run!!!! Started preping my GLI spoiler (lip) for paint. Have some brake ducts on the way. Just picked up my rear disc kit & front 19mm swaybar.

The grille went back to black, and the bumper is on in preperation for the meet tomorrow. Don't forget.
on1salsero

damn I think you've done more work on your car than all of us put together
stuston



MikesA1A2FU

sweet
Getta Life

on1salsero wrote:
damn I think you've done more work on your car than all of us put together


and it still looks the same as it did when he got it!!! Got to love mechanics.

pg. III pwned.
stuston

    How about this for some cosmetics;

  • Clear bumper lights ... no, really... they don't look APC-ish at all.
  • New front fender flairs.
  • Red taillight repair tape over the rear blinker... not going to stay put though.
  • Working on Blue LEDs in the vents. I know, I know.... but give me a break, I'm an Electronics Engineer, and I'm waiting on parts to come in to put my dash back together, I needed something to do.
  • New head unit w/ iPod control.
  • GLI spoiler lip painted and ready to go on as soon as I muster the courage to drill.
  • Removed the fender antena (broken), soon to put in the GLI-stlye roof antenna (also requies drilling).
  • Refilled and sprayed the grille. Put on the trim strip.

Finally had the alignment done Friday.
Did the oil change and put in the windage tray over the weekend.
Have the Prothane bushings for my 19mm swaybar, whenever I get around to putting that in.
More to come...
stuston

Just finished the GLI spoiler, 19mm swaybar w/ Prothane, removed pinstripes on one side, completed LEDs. Still waiting on that #@#^ing blower, but good news; I have another A/C compressor on the way.

Newest picts up soon. I'll be entering her in the Wings and Wheels show at the Museum of Aviation on October 13th.
MikesA1A2FU

Damn boy!!
dragonfli_x

MikesA1A2FU wrote:
Damn boy!!


He just won't stop!!! LOL
stuston

Updated Pictures HERE!!!
See sub-albums for rust repair & show prep for Wings and Wheels.
stuston

Re: The Punch List 8/25

    Completed Projects
  • Front wheel bearings, hubs, brakes, & rotors.
  • Pass. Axel
  • Wheels & Tires
  • Water pump & coolant flush
  • Tranny fluid change
  • Leather & Aluminum Shift knob and boot
  • Minor rust repair & replace rear DS door handle
  • Fixed a few exterior lighting bugs (coke & dielctric grease FTW)
  • Painted the grille white and VW black, and then back to black w/ charcoal VW
  • A/C converstion, everything but the coils and lines, then blew the new compressor
  • K&N, removed restrictive airbox parts, disabled diverter (WOW, very throaty)
  • DS Headlight replacement, no more broken adjustment tabs!
  • HD rubber front motor mount, replaced subframe bushings (GOD! The RUST!)
  • Replaced alternator under warranty.
  • GLI rear lip spoiler
  • Electronic components to build my own "lights on" buzzer (Juan, Mark, you know why)
  • Kit to build electronic A/C blower speed control (infinite adjustment)
  • Front Fender Flairs
  • Pass. rocker panel trim
  • Oil/Filter change, Installed windage tray
  • Front Sway bar 19mm w/ Prothane upgrade (OEM is 17mm)
  • iPod connected audio system, new speakers all around
  • Clear Bumper lights
  • Painted the seats two-tone, carpet charcoal
  • New HVAC Blower, repaired speed controller
  • Tacky Blue LEDs in the vents (w/ dimmer)
  • HOH-banged rust repair, welded the hell out of that thing.
  • De-Pinstriped & resprayed ALL the trim
  • DIY rear blinker red-out (using tinted brake light repair tape)

    Parts in the garage or on the way:
  • Armrest console - SOLD to pay for Weitec Struts!!!
  • Front and rear shock swap (OEM) -- For sale, putting in the Weitec's
  • Bazooka Tube powered subwoffer -- may build a custom box instead
  • Sachs' clutch upgrade w/ 16v pressureplate -- Still waiting on the old one.
  • Lift struts for hood/trunk
  • Rear discs
  • Front 10.1" disc upgrade (complete)
  • Programmable delay wiper relay
  • Second AC compressor swap *argh*

    Future Projects:
  • Polybushings for the entire front end
  • Po' boys Cold Air
  • Light swaps; M3 rears
  • Tinted Windows
  • Paint, Rust, & cosmetic fixes -- may start shaving
  • DIY Lighting mods -- Can't deny my first love, electronics, but you won't see any puddle or music lights on this thing.
  • Starting to look at upholstry, falling in love with Recaro Trophys (but I guess everyone must be, check the prices, if you can find a set)
on1salsero

you have way too much time on your hands to write that novel...
stuston

Blew the Heater Core on the way home last night. Thought I got it licked with some aluminum leak stop, but this morning, still steamin'. At least I found one for ~$40 -- now just for an ass-load of labor taking the dash out again.

Hey Felix, you want me to order one for the Passat while I'm at it? It's actually the same part.
stuston

Posted a DIY on the 'tex for a headlight buzzer; http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroth...5599&postid=42775500#42775500

Tonight, put in blue LEDs for instumrnt lights as I was taking apart the dash in peperation for the heater core replacement.
MikesA1A2FU

DUDE!!!
stuston

Hellina: Hell-In-A Jetta

Hellina Update: Hell-In-A Jetta;
While replacing the heater core, I realized I had destroyed the main diverter actuator gear - looks like it was made to break easily for some reason. I ended up repairing that by just covering the whole thing in epoxy and dremel-ing out the important parts. So cross your fingers.

After getting the whole heater box back in, went to go fill the coolant and the damn thing wouldn't turn over. Went through the whole procedure (multiple times, bought and returned parts...), and finally settled on a bad Ignition Control Module. Then I managed to put the distributor in @ 180degress off, and had the hall sensor unplugged for a while... Not sure what the original problem really was, but I got her running again, so I'm not touching anything once I get the timing adjusted.

Now for the real drama, about a week ago;
So then, I went to drive her up and down the driveway. All but the dash itself was still out (wanted to run water through her before buttoning up the HVAC), and it was dark. So I plug in the headlight switch and turn on the lights. As soon as I shift into reverse; "POP, HISSSS, PSSSSS, WOOOF" Flame and smoke start pouring out of the driver vent hole, flaming plastic starts falling between my legs onto the floor mat. Initially, I tried blowing on it, but as I realized how stupid that idea was, I somehow remembered to turn the car off and grab the key as I squeezed out of the door. I am totally freaking out at this point, because the car is on fire, about a foot from my motorcycle, parked under the porch, and about 3 feet from Maki and Mark's car, and Maki was in the house. I didn't have keys to anything but Hellina. If I did manage to get back in her and release the ebrake, she'd roll safely back from the house, cars, and motorcycle... right into the Mercedes. It didn't seem like much of an option with fire and smoke between me and the ebrake.

As I run around the car, I can still see flame and the smoke becomes so thick you can't see from one window to the other. I run into the garage, searching for the fire extinguisher... can't find it, I know it's there, so I look a moment longer than I should have, then I remember the half-gallon of distilled water I was using to fill the coolant system! Not the best thing I know, but I was pretty sure I was incapable of peeing on it at that point. Grabbed the jug, and charged back to the car, the smoke so thick that the windows looked as white as the car.

Through the smoke, I could still make out some "glowing", but didn't look like flame, so I carefully opened the door expecting the worst (saw "Backdraft" too many times I guess). As the smoke poured out, I had to back off, but it was clear that the fire was out, for now. Maybe it was just relief of not seeing flame, or the end of the adrenaline rush, but by this time, my brain was beginning to function again. Luckily I had the hood was popped, so I dove in and disconnected the battery (again carefully, I wasn't planning on fusing my hand, or Mark's tools, to any part of THIS car).

My heart rate began to slow, and I looked up to notice the lights in the house were out, so Maki was in bed, and I didn't have to wake her up just before her house burned down. What a relief. Walked around, opened all the doors, rolled down the windows, and let the smoke clear while I made sure the flame didn't come back. Then I look in the garage and see the fire extinguisher... right where I was looking for it, only 12 inches higher... DOH!

It turns out, a 14-gauge HOT line from the fuse box to the headlight switch, isn't actually fused on the HOT side. So when the car shifted, the light switch fell, and the 1/16" space between it and the connector slid right around a metal tab on the dash shell, which, though not fully installed, was apparently VERY grounded. The entire line from the switch to the fuse box became a heater, melted off every last vapor of insulation that was covering it, throwing it onto adjacent wires and dripping into the floorboard while still flaming. Melted both connectors, and actually MELTED some of the COPPER STRANDS into little balls. The only thing that stopped it from getting worse was that the lead finally burnt through itself near the fuse box, but only after fusing all the strands together. It actually shorted on another terminal in the switch, so the switch itself was pretty f'd as well.

So the moral of this story is three-fold;
1) Always KNOW where the fire extinguisher is (even when you couldn't fathom starting a fire for any reason.
2) Never trust VW to put a fuse where a fuse ought to be.
3) There is never only ONE problem.

New switch and harness are on the way, so once again, I find myself saying "...then I can finally drive her again".

Cross your fingers and say a prayer for Hellina.
MikesA1A2FU

PDT_Aliboronz_19 you are among the gods now!! PDT_Aliboronz_19
stuston

She's all back together now, ran her all Friday and Saturday.  So far everything is good.  Now I've got to get to the suspension swap.  Need some lowering springs and rear shocks (and a little hardware) and I'll be golden... until the next BS breaks.
Getta Life

tho some deeeez on dat biiit.
Volksman247

IM SORRY MAN

MIKE. PDT_Aliboronz_07 [/list]
stuston

Its cool man, it's been a trip.  Volksman247 pimped it and let Hellina come over into my ho stable.

What's going to really suck is when I really start having rust problems.  Eventually I'll find another MKII shell and do a complete swap/rebuild.  I think everyone knows that I'm 'bout done with bs breaking, but it's jsut all been high-manhour stuff, nothing seriously broken.  That's why I'm hesitating on doing the suspension/brakes and clutch swap, I just want to enjoy her for a while before I fuck up something else.
stuston

I forget what I last posted... but here's where I am;

Figured out two sources of my battery drain.  The trunk light has been broken a while now, but it seems to have slid and contacted the body, keeping it running.  Also, the cheap stereo I bought was acting pretty funny, so I finally took it out one afternoon to find it hot, even though it was a cool day and I'd had it off the whole trip home -- so that's gong back soon.

I finally got around to putting one of the rattle clips on the front brakes, took care of one of the sounds and some of the squeaking.  It just doesn't seem worth the time to go back and do the other 3 clips (why I didn't do both on the driver's side, don't ask), since I have a whole suspension swap waiting to be put in.

The suspension and brake swap is complete and just waiting to go in.  I have the 10-inchers up front, 9" disc for the rear, both with all new hardware.  Mintek REDs, SS Braided, new rotors all around, rear piston rebuild, all new sliders and bolts.  Weitec front struts, Gabriel (OEM+) rear, NuSpeed SofSport springs (~.5" drop, front/rear).  Front knuckles have complete bearing kit, and control arms are getting HD-rubber/R32-solid front/rear bearings.  Front struts are getting the VR6 bearing upgrade, rears are getting red poly.  New balls and hardware.  About the only thing not being replaced are the control arms themselves, the rear beam, wheels/tires, and the 19mm swaybar I put in a few months ago.  I'm staying with the 4-lugs, just because it's what I've got and it was a lot cheaper than finding new wheels.

All the tranny parts are in.  I've got the 16v pressure plate, Sachs 8v clutch, LW EuroSpec flywheel, complete clutch hardware rebuild kit (throw outs, rod, bearings, etc.)  New seals for most of the exterior openings, including the engine rear main seal (while I'm at it), and a few of the shift bushings I didn't get to last time.

So between those two projects, I'll basically be rebuilding the whole front end of the car, sans engine.  And I might have to throw in a driver's axel while I'm at it.  I also still have to get the AC done.  I've got to get to all of it soon, but I'm pretty slammed through the first half of summer.
stuston

still haven't gotten to any of the major projects.  But I sis have to replace the upper rad hose, sprung a leak sometime last week  and wouldnlt crank this weekend.   Rubber hose, some colant and a charged battery got her running again.  And I got my stereo back and installed the Bluetooth... that's awesome. m  funtoys.
stuston

Bump for another set of lowering springs on the way.  Thanks Mark!  I should be able to get to some of these projects soon.  With gas going down a bit, it won't make it so painful to drive the truck a little bit.
stuston

I was looking at that lower rad hose this weekend, thinking 'I should really do that when I get to the tranny and suspension'.  Then I ran across a metal coolant flange, the ones that are normally brittle plastic, and thought, 'I should get one of those, so I don't have to deal with the plastic cracking'.

Then today, on my way to a meeting in Macon, and just as it started to rain, the heater core supply hose split open.  I had someone pick me up and went to my meeting, and of course, afterward the bottom fell out.  I had Mark take me to the ubber-Oriely down my way, and they didn't have the hose, so we shuffled though their hose rack (in the back) and pieced together a replacement.  Then the power went out, crashed their computers, and they had to write it all up manually.  Luckly, Mark had some of his baby's cash ( yeah, literally ), because I had like $8, and of course they couldn't run a card.

So I'll be driving the truck tomorrow, because Hellina is sitting at the Chick-Fil-A across from the Macon mall.  Lord save her.

Oh... the memories I will have of this Jetta.  At least I don't have a tan Camry, like BOTH my parents.
stuston

All pictures available here; http://s216.photobucket.com/albums/cc15/stuston/Hellina%20MkII/

Front Lowering DONE:  Weitech Struts w/ VR6 bushings, Koni -60mm Springs (euro source), 10.2" vented discs w/ Gerling calipers, all matched in blue brake paint -- shouldn't see much rust here.  She's LOW, but rubbings is not too bad, I think I can get it rolled out pretty easily.  Just need to complete the install with control arm bushings and complete rear upgrade.




Done:
*A/C converstion (started) *Front Fender Flairs *Headlight replacement *K&N *Front Brakes/Struts/Lowering Springs w/ VR6 strut busings *iPod audio system, new speakers all around *Front Sway bar upgrade (19mm) *Solid rubber motor/trans mounts all around *Clear bumper turns *Front Fender Flairs  *GLI rear lip spoiler  *"lights on" buzzer

Gotta get ready for Wings and Wheels in October, so on the way SOON:
*Sachs' clutch upgrade w/ 16v pressureplate, LW Fly *HD Rubber (R32/TT Rear Ctrl Arm Bushings) front end *Light swaps for smoked turns, M3 rears *may start shaving *swap to standard seatbelts *Lift struts for hood/trunk  *Tinted Windows  *Paint, Rust, & cosmetic fixes -- may start shaving  *DIY Lighting mods (Can't deny my first love, electronics), but you won't see any puddle or music lights on this thing.
dragonfli_x

OMG hot hot hot!!!!  PDT_Aliboronz_15
fxgolf

your car RUBS me the right way adam.  PDT_Aliboronz_09
stuston

IDLE Hands?

The past week or so, several times my idle has rocketed to 3500RPM for a few minutes during driving (stop lights and such), sometimes tipping just over 4k.  After talking to Felix, I had a strong suspicion that it was the ISV, which on a MKII is a continual POS, so I happened to have a spare at home.  Swapped that out, cleaned up all the oil in the intake, checked all the vacuum lines, and was good to go.

Then yesterday, on the way to Bass Pro with my son, it happened again.  So I'm riding along, trying to lower my RPM with the brakes (now nicely broken in), and of course, hit every light along Riverside (and pull up next to an unmarked PD in the process).  I have to kill it at every light, and pray that my electrical demon doesn't come back and she starts again.  So made it to Bass pro... never went in.  I noticed how the ISV leads were poorly wrapped in electrical tape, and noticed some corroded copper showing. Messed with it some until idle returned to normal.  Dropped off Patrick and went straight home.

Upon removing what seemed like 20' of oily electrical tape, I discovered that BOTH ISV leads were melted down to the bare wire over about 6", nearly to the plug.  (I have an injector that is fused-to it's plug, due to leaky exhaust header, so I'm assuming this was the same issue, and one of the PO's  -- who is a dumbass by the way, not you Mike -- created this mess.  With the rain, humidity, and heat lately,  the wires might as well have been bare.

So I dug out all my electrical stuff, rigged together some new leads using the leftovers from the headlight switch fire, and the original ISV plug & boot.  So far, she's been running good, no surging and even had to cut idle back some.  So cross your fingers, get on your knees, and pray for Hellina.

....and since my electrical stuff was strewn all over the kitchen;  I finally installed a Hella Map light from a some other Audi/VW.  Took some rigging, but now I've got a Two-light Door/Dome/Map light, that works!
fxgolf

congrats on figuring out the problem (i hope)  see i was right after all  PDT_Aliboronz_01
albanyjetta

your cars hawt


i dont say that because of the fire
stuston

albanyjetta wrote:
your cars hawt


i dont say that because of the fire


thanks CARFAX!  lol
albanyjetta

looks even better in person. great job!!!!!
stuston

albanyjetta wrote:
looks even better in person. great job!!!!!


Thanks man.  These guys can tell you I take my own shortcuts, and have an amazing ability to find deals, but I do put a lot of work in to it.... ask my GF!
albanyjetta

yea man if free on the weekend i might just ride up there one day if you are having a techday
stuston

Things not going so smoothly for Hellina.  I started by tracking down a coolant leak and decided to do the timing belt... just in the nick of time, the idler was completely shot!  I took out all the coolant lines to get her cleaned up and replace them.  Figured I'd go ahead and do the clutch soon, but I found some coolant in the intake, and I think some on the dipstick.  Pulled the  valve cover and seems like no water there, so I guess I'm going to drain the oil and see how it looks before I remove the head to check for a blown gasket.  Cross your fingers guys.

I still haven't gotten to the rear suspension upgrade.
MikesA1A2FU

Consider all fingers crossed!!
stuston

Water in #4.  Calling GAP for a bunch of parts on Monday, unless someone has a head gasket kit laying around.
MikesA1A2FU

Damn it MAN you just cant catch a break!! PDT_Aliboronz_14
stuston

It may be time to start looking for a new one, it's just really horrible timing.  Might need to sell my bike soon too.  I just ordered the $200 in parts to redo the entire upper half of the engine, so we'll see where she goes from there.

Brad was going to let me powder coat some things, but I think I'll have to put that off.
MikesA1A2FU

stuston wrote:
It may be time to start looking for a new one, it's just really horrible timing.  Might need to sell my bike soon too.  I just ordered the $200 in parts to redo the entire upper half of the engine, so we'll see where she goes from there.

Brad was going to let me powder coat some things, but I think I'll have to put that off.


Brad has a couple of 1.8's sitting around we pulled em running. I am sure he would part one.
fxgolf

step into a nice MK4 GTI.  PDT_Aliboronz_09  i got one for you on the low low
stuston

fxgolf wrote:
step into a nice MK4 GTI.  PDT_Aliboronz_09  i got one for you on the low low


You know I'd like to, but it's not exactly a replacement for a MKII daily.  ;)
stuston

Look at what I have been up to...  should be mostly back together by the weekend, but don't expect to drive for a week after that.







The rest are all here; http://s216.photobucket.com/album.../stuston/Hellina%20MkII/Teardown/
stuston

I talked to a few of you about the tranny alignment problem I was having.  After I checked to make sure I hadn't ruined the clutch or the splines, I mounted it all back up and whola!  it slid right together.  Figures, I wasted 3 days worrying about it and waiting to get someone else to look at it.  "Try, try again."

I went to replace the tie rods while the drivetrain was still out, and noticed that the right rear motor mount was split.  So another order to the GAP last night, and a few more days of waiting, then she'll go back in.  I also ordered the block heater so I can continue using the 20w50 all winter without having to run it for 15 minutes before I leave each morning.  I'm also waiting on the shift selector boot from Butler, should be in later this week as well.

In the mean time I will finish up the tie rods, clean the engine bay inside out, and clean up some of the wiring with some weave I picked up.  That's right, it's a weave.
fxgolf

you going to dye that weave?  PDT_Aliboronz_09
Sum Old Guy

aww crud, man, I could have given you my oil pan heater I had in North Dakota.  It was wayyyy too cold for that thing up there, so I only used it once.  I just found it in my storage shed yesterday.  If you know anyone that needs it, $5 and it's theirs.
stuston

Sum Old Guy wrote:
aww crud, man, I could have given you my oil pan heater I had in North Dakota.  It was wayyyy too cold for that thing up there, so I only used it once.  I just found it in my storage shed yesterday.  If you know anyone that needs it, $5 and it's theirs.


I'll take it too.... that's what I really needed.

I got the Engine back in, knocked out the freeze plug and mounted the block heater.  Started putting the manis on the head.  Going to bed.
stuston

Anybody have a torque wrench that will do 60Nm?
Sum Old Guy

stuston wrote:
Anybody have a torque wrench that will do 60Nm?


yeah.  when do you need it?
stuston

Sum Old Guy wrote:
stuston wrote:
Anybody have a torque wrench that will do 60Nm?


yeah.  when do you need it?


Yeasterday ;)  Mark hooked me up.  Thanks.
Sum Old Guy

stuston wrote:
Sum Old Guy wrote:
stuston wrote:
Anybody have a torque wrench that will do 60Nm?


yeah.  when do you need it?


Yeasterday ;)  Mark hooked me up.  Thanks.


Glad I was able to help.
stuston

More picture updates; http://s216.photobucket.com/album.../stuston/Hellina%20MkII/Teardown/

Engine is mounted, with the block heater.  Head mounted and torqued.  Timing is done (aligning the crank, cam, rotor) with new belt and tensioner.  Started cleaning up the vac and electrical routing.  Need to put in the cooling, AC Compressor, Alternator, belts, fan, and hope I don't have any parts left over.
stuston

Started her up last night!  WOO HOO!!!

I tried on Friday night (Saturday Morning), to no avail, just kept dumping fuel and never getting ignition.  Spark was good, fuel being delivered.  So last night I disconnected the injectors and sprayed some carb cleaner into the boot, tried a few times and it just didn't sound right.  Checked for timing marks and TDC, good.  Checked rotor for #1 alignment... bingo, distributer was way off, probably around 40deg.  Realigned that, plugged everything up, and she fired right up.

She runs a little rough, think one cylinder may be missing, just a lot of vibration.  I'll check the plugs and wait until I can get a road test before I get too concerned about it.  That poly insert motor mount really makes the vibration quite harsh in the cabin... might take it back out.  Still need to hook up the AC lines, put the bumper and belt splash guard on.  The 90Amp alternator seems to be working fine, and the new AC compressor isn't making any strange noises, eventhough it's just free wheeling right now.  Anybody want to make a donation to the AC fund before spring?  Or just pray it stays cold forever, but I don't think I like that plan.

Sorry I missed the meet this weekend, I was busy being an obedient man and getting some Christmas shopping done in Atlanta with the woman.  I did pick up a real nice black MKII carpet while I was there, thanks Digifart ('tex).
stuston

Still can't quite get the shifter aligned, need a third hand instead of a third leg ;).  Sprung another coolant leak; thermo housing is warped, which might have been part of the original problem.  Yet another order to GAP, since nobody local has it.

Trying to decide if I should convert thermo housing to studs.  It would make assembly faster, but steel studs will rust.  Any thoughts?
stuston

Got the shifter aligned (finally), afer hacking up the alignment tool I made.

I took out the right rear motor mount Poly insert, now she runs super smooth, cabin has a nice hum instead of a loud roar.  I'm just waiting on my thermostat housing from GAP and I'll be back in business.  Need an alignment and front tires soon though, and I still have that rear end swap over to do.
fxgolf

nice work sir hope to see you at the 14th meet  PDT_Aliboronz_20   now that you are a pro you can help me with the new bomber  PDT_Aliboronz_11
stuston

Last night she spilled her guts on a *spirtited* test drive around *an undisclosed location*.  I failed to clamp a cap on the coolant distribution pipe, so it just popped off once the temperature and pressure got to the right point, which apparently took about a lap.  Luckly the cap was in the engine compartment, so back on with a clamp and a little RTV for good measure, refill the coolant, and rinse off the engine (while it's warm and running)... good to go.  Strange part was, this was the third drive, and the previous one was much warmer and pushed her harder, but the cap never came off.

Brought her in to work this morning.  Only hiccup was stalling her at the gate, I am still getting used to the new clutch and LW Flywheel.  Wasn't expecting the rain today.  I never put back on the splash guards, which has caused most of my electrical problem in the past with rain.  And, the inner plastic fender is still out where some metal inner fender rot needss to be patched.  So hopefully I get home without any trouble.
dragonfli_x

and so how did it goooooo?
stuston

No troubles that day, it stoped raining by the time I went home.

But now I'm having trouble with the coolant level.  Light comes on, coolant is low; top it off and drive some more, light comes on, take a look and the bottle is about to burst.  Releave the pressure and let it over flow, or pump a little bit out.  Drive some more, coolant low.  This afternoon I let it run at full temperature for a good 15 minutes, checking the levels with the cap off.  Reved it a bunch, fast and slow, got it just perfect with *no* air bubbles... surely.  That seems to be OK for now.

Then, my oil pressurne light and buzzer start flashing, then go away.  Both indicators happen most frequently when stopping or slowing down after a highway-speed run.  I'll keep an eye on the coolant, but I think I have that figured out now.  Need to follow the Bently proceedures to determine if I have a bad oil pressure switch.  Does anyone have an oil pressure guage?

Any thoughts?  Anyone?
Sum Old Guy

stuston wrote:
No troubles that day, it stoped raining by the time I went home.

But now I'm having trouble with the coolant level.  Light comes on, coolant is low; top it off and drive some more, light comes on, take a look and the bottle is about to burst.  Releave the pressure and let it over flow, or pump a little bit out.  Drive some more, coolant low.  This afternoon I let it run at full temperature for a good 15 minutes, checking the levels with the cap off.  Reved it a bunch, fast and slow, got it just perfect with *no* air bubbles... surely.  That seems to be OK for now.

Then, my oil pressurne light and buzzer start flashing, then go away.  Both indicators happen most frequently when stopping or slowing down after a highway-speed run.  I'll keep an eye on the coolant, but I think I have that figured out now.  Need to follow the Bently proceedures to determine if I have a bad oil pressure switch.  Does anyone have an oil pressure guage?

Any thoughts?  Anyone?


as far as the oil pressure light, try running 20w50 (if you're not already).  I did that to mine last year and haven't seen that light come on since
Sum Old Guy

Sum Old Guy wrote:
stuston wrote:
No troubles that day, it stoped raining by the time I went home.

But now I'm having trouble with the coolant level.  Light comes on, coolant is low; top it off and drive some more, light comes on, take a look and the bottle is about to burst.  Releave the pressure and let it over flow, or pump a little bit out.  Drive some more, coolant low.  This afternoon I let it run at full temperature for a good 15 minutes, checking the levels with the cap off.  Reved it a bunch, fast and slow, got it just perfect with *no* air bubbles... surely.  That seems to be OK for now.

Then, my oil pressurne light and buzzer start flashing, then go away.  Both indicators happen most frequently when stopping or slowing down after a highway-speed run.  I'll keep an eye on the coolant, but I think I have that figured out now.  Need to follow the Bently proceedures to determine if I have a bad oil pressure switch.  Does anyone have an oil pressure guage?

Any thoughts?  Anyone?


as far as the oil pressure light, try running 20w50 (if you're not already).  I did that to mine last year and haven't seen that light come on since


forgot to mention that Mikey at Barry Palmer Auto in Marietta suggested that.  He said that the older VW's with high mileage seem to like 20w50 and run better
stuston

Sum Old Guy wrote:
Sum Old Guy wrote:


as far as the oil pressure light, try running 20w50 (if you're not already).  I did that to mine last year and haven't seen that light come on since


forgot to mention that Mikey at Barry Palmer Auto in Marietta suggested that.  He said that the older VW's with high mileage seem to like 20w50 and run better


That's what I normally run, on just about everyone's reccomendation, but I thought I'd run a little lighter for the break-in in the cold weather.  I'm going to do an oil and filter change and check the pump before I drive it anymore.  I will probably go ahead and run the Bently troubleshooting on the sensors just to be sure.
Sum Old Guy

stuston wrote:
Sum Old Guy wrote:
Sum Old Guy wrote:


as far as the oil pressure light, try running 20w50 (if you're not already).  I did that to mine last year and haven't seen that light come on since


forgot to mention that Mikey at Barry Palmer Auto in Marietta suggested that.  He said that the older VW's with high mileage seem to like 20w50 and run better


That's what I normally run, on just about everyone's reccomendation, but I thought I'd run a little lighter for the break-in in the cold weather.  I'm going to do an oil and filter change and check the pump before I drive it anymore.  I will probably go ahead and run the Bently troubleshooting on the sensors just to be sure.


oh, ok.  I replaced my pump and sensors a few months before Mikey told me to run the 20w50.  Before I changed the oil, the damn light was coming on.  But, I got lucky, because the buzzer wasnt going off.

Good Luck, though
stuston

I pulled the oil pan and pump, cleaned the sludge out of everything.  Replaced the filter and filled her with 20W50.  So far she's running smooth and no warnings from the dash.

The 10w40 I drained from her was super dirty, but not burnt.  You could see it on the funnel; a layer of particles settled on the plastic while fresh oil sat on top of it.  So my intent of using the lighter oil seems to have worked, I got all the gunk out.  I just didn't drive it as long as I had planned.  I think I only ended up with about 200 miles.

Coolant light did come back on this morning.   It's right at the MIN mark, so I'm just going to ignore the light and add just a few ounces at a time to see if it levels off or is actually leaking.
stuston

Coolant seems to be fixed now.  I clamped off the feed hose and removed the resevoir.  I sprayed some brake cleaner in there and swished it around for a while.  Did that a few times and got some gunk out of the brand new resevior... more rebuild sludge, next time I will flush it first.  So now the sensor seems to be working fine.  I'm still a little worried that the cap is not bleeding off pressure like it should be.  Does anybody know if the cap is supposed to be completely tight, or backed off half a turn?
fxgolf

as far as i know it is supposed to be completly tight.  the inner guts allow the pressure to bypass.  is the cap new?  if so i have heard of new caps being bad.  did it come from VW directly?  or aftermarket OEM?
stuston

fxgolf wrote:
as far as i know it is supposed to be completly tight.  the inner guts allow the pressure to bypass.  is the cap new?  if so i have heard of new caps being bad.  did it come from VW directly?  or aftermarket OEM?


New, came from GAP, but I'm pretty sure it is OEM supplier, not 3rd-party.  It just screws down so much I don't see how it could vent, and the part with the o-ring doesn't seem to move much.  It's not leaking anyhere as far as I can tell, but the level is dropping off slowly.  Could it be that it's not holding any pressure and so there's just coolant slowly evaporating out over 50-60 miles?
stuston

Hellina has been down for the past ~month with another blown head gasket.  I relized that I didn't get the timing right, but it wasn't so bad that she wouldn't run.  Don't know if I have another problem, like a clogged cat, but I'm going to try a new headgasket and getting the timing right, then work from there.
fxgolf

good luck old bean PDT_Aliboronz_15
stuston

After getting her running for about ten minutes, I got more coolant out the tailpipe.  Mark told me to retorque the headbolts, which I did... same result.  So after another "heat cycle", I decided to make sure they were all equally torqued.  Started with #1, got a setting from it of about 110Nm, so by the time I hit the 4th one... pop.  Yeah, that was too much.  So now the head comes back off again.... I'm really dreading this, I think I'm done.
fxgolf

so a VR swap is in the works?  i will help you out with the work.  but a G60 wit a Gladder would be sick.
stuston

I'll be doing whatever's cheapest... so if you want to give me one of those VR6's laying around your garage for the price of scrap, plus all the parts... then it's on.  Smilie_PDT
fxgolf

well if you want to rebuild one of them you can have the obd1 block i have.
stuston

Monday night I got her running again.  All seems to be well with the leaks gone, not nearly as much water out of the tailpipe, and no smoke.  I drove her most of the day Tuesday, while it wasn't raining and she did pretty well, aside from a little bit of odd throttle response -- either there's some water in the tank or front wheels slipping because the tires are slick as shit.

Drove her to work on Wednesday, and developed a miss and started losing a lot of horsepower.  I checked the plugs last night and #4 was wet with gas.  I'm going to verify the timing marks and replace the rotor cap - I cracked one of the post shrouds and glued it back together, plus being wet = not a happy rotor.  If that doesn't do it, I'll rotate injectors to see what I come up with.
stuston

I guess it's time for an update...

Cracked all 4 pistons around the ring grooves, pretty ugly.  Got a CIS motor, stripped the block and had it hot dipped, machined, and IS bearings put in at Reeve's - good work, very quick and cheap.  Built it back up with all new parts, aside from the heavy peices, used the CIS rods and pistons and the Digi head.  Painted her "cast iron grey", and after a very busy summer, finally got it installed.

This week I finally put the finishing touches on her and got her fired up.  For some reason I always have the distributor timing off on inital startup, so it took me a bunch of tries to get her runnning.  I think that dumped a bunch of gas in the cat; by the time Mark and I got the timing checked out, the cat was seriously glowing.  Odd thing was that it was glowing from the back side.  I had to figure it is because of the massive restriction at the end of the straight pipe, going from 2.5" to 1.75", was making the gases back up into the cat.  Anybody got a better explaination?

We took her for a test run, got half way down the block and the oil pressure buzzer went off around 3kRPM, cleared it, tried again... car kept losing power, but the buzzer was only going off above 2500.  After a day of wondering, tried it again and wouldn't start at all.  Mark came over and we checked the cat for meltdown, good; tried spraying starting fluid and got a few fires out of it; decided it wasn't getting fuel, but didn't know why.  I had noticed the fuel pump sounded funny, so naturally I thought I just had another bad MKII pump.  Then Mark asked the stupid question, and he was right... I was out of gas ;(

Put in a couple of gallons of 92octane and she started with just a few tries.  Still running rough, but the timing was still good.  No glowing cats, but we didn't run her up as much, and definately didn't dump as much unspent fuel.  Tracked down an annoying oil leak to the back side of the valve cover gasket, hope that does it.  Noted oil smelled like gas, but a sop-and-fire test proved there wasn't much gas in the oil.  

Still getting a lot of low RPM vibration, and oil buzzers over 2500 RPM.  I want to think it is just all the new gear needing to be broken in, but it may very well be the one oil sensor I didn't replace, some assembly trash clogging the oil filter or the oil passages.  I really don't want to waste 5 quarts of new oil to find out, but I guess if I'm clean and filter it I could reuse it.
fxgolf

yay
stuston

Viva Hellina!

It's been a year, so I guess it's time for an update... and it just happens to be good news.

First, let me say that I got a new job in Atlanta, still working for the Feds.  One major attraction was that they have a full(-ish) garage;  lights, lift, HVAC, major metal working tools ... pinch me.  So I drove her up with ... let's keep this short ... trouble.  Got her here and been sitting most of the last month.  Messing around with her, blew the cat.  Taking advantage of the facilities, I pulled the head and just replaced all gaskets, rings, and make sure everything was torqued to spec.  Still no power, but running pretty smoothly for an 8V above 1200 RPM.

Noticed a VW shop nearby (Austell), so I decided this would be a good chance to see if the mechanic was worth anything.  Took her down there at lunch today, and round 2:30 got a call.  He found a few things that weren't the problem ("wrong" plugs, timing belt too tight), and then... the kicker... two of the plug wires were swapped!  DOH!!!  This is one time I would pay someone $175 to swap two plug wires and install spark plugs!

Man, she's riding beautifully now.  I'm so excited, but I'm paranoid about breaking her.  I'm going to take her home tonight -- need to get the break-in miles before it gets too cold.

So tomorrow night I will drive the truck and pick up all the rear-end parts from storage.  Then I can start putting together the rear disc conversion and lowering springs.  This will be so nice with a lift.  I'll probably see if I can find a good exhaust place to finish out the pipes and put in a new high-flow Cat (which I will be ordering myself to save the dough).  Any recommendation for inexpensive 2.5 or 2.25" low restriction mufflers?

Oh, by the way, the oil pressure buzzer/light;  turns out I had put a temp sensor on the filter flange where the high pressure switch belongs.  After some reading, I realized that that sensor only gets registered above a certain RPM (apparently around 2500), so traced it down.  Don't know where that other sensor came from, but it fit like a damn glove.

So the moral of this story is, if you're anal-retentive but still make stupid mistakes,  you're either a jackass or working on a MKII.  Maybe both.
fxgolf

glad to finally hear some good news about her.  do you think you can bring her down for the 30th of Oct for the GTG? PDT_Aliboronz_20
stuston

As of right now, planning on it.
dragonfli_x

nice!! sounds like the gravy train! Smilie_PDT swapped wires?! ... that and wrong plugs?... at least it was a very simple fix... I got nothing...  PDT_Aliboronz_25
stuston

Got another big problem that popped up on the trip to Macon and back on Saturday.  Felt a vibration coming down, but thought it was just the exhaust rubbing the swaybar, or the tires rubbing the fenders.  On the way back, it got worse, and when I was hitting 80, it was "catching" and causing the RPMs to drop very suddenly for just a moment.  I stopped at the truck weigh station in Forsyth and figured out that it was coming from the diff.  Thought it could be the bearings, or the infamous 020 rivets.  After checking BrokeVW.com for some info, worst case, it could also be the spider gears.

So I guess tomorrow I will go pick up the truck and head out to find a new 020, or maybe an 02A.
fxgolf

man you just cant win.  im telling you a VR swap is what she wants.  call me and we can work out a deal for mine.  PDT_Aliboronz_09
stuston

fxgolf wrote:
man you just cant win.  im telling you a VR swap is what she wants.  call me and we can work out a deal for mine.  PDT_Aliboronz_09


Lay off it, I'm not doing a VR swap into a MKII, EVER.  Call me when you get a good 1.8T or TDI - would even consider a 16v.  But none of that solves the tranny issue.

020 5-spd costs:
New:     ~$1300-1600
Rebuilt: ~$1100
Repair: $400 to $1100+ (depending how bad it is - BrokeVW.com)
DIY:  Starts ~$200 (for wear parts and gaskets/seals) + replacement parts

020 or 02A @ Pull-A-Part ~$40.
stuston

Got her up on stands tonight and started investigating.  Pass wheel was wobbling. Got the whole knuckle loose, except for the *#!@ing tie rod end (eventhough I had some nice SnapOn pullers at my disposal), and it seems the bearing is GONE.  I hope that's all it is, but won't know until I do some pounding.
fxgolf

well if i knew you wanted a 16v i would have sold you the 89 GTI i just got rid of.  that thing was a beast of a 16v.  i hope all it is, is a bearing. PDT_Aliboronz_20

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